Muang Khua - Muang Ngoi Neua

If this were a fictionalised account of a journey, an entry like today's would certainly find itself cut from the final draft.

The truth is nothing of any note happened today. The gang awoke, shared waffles sprinkled with sugar, and then got on a boat to Muang Ngoi Neua. The most interesting thing is that our destination can only be reached by boat. A circle of mountains covered with dense brush surrounds the village, and no roads to the place have yet been built. This means, Muang Nboi Neua, above all, is a peaceful place. Stilted structures made of bamboo and other woods line the steep banks of the river, and the only sounds come from the occasional outboard motor passing below. The verandas of these guesthouses are populated with hammocks and easy-chairs, and the most popular activities are reading and staring into the middle distance. It's very pleasant, not to mention cheap at $1 a night.

At dinner we discovered one of the downsides of the lack of transport links. Instead of the feast of seafoods and red meats we'd anticipated as we read the menu, upon ordering we found that the only options that night were the vegetarian ones. It's like being at a retreat for vegans . . . it's undeniably healthy with the zero pollution and a diet of fresh fruit and veg, but you suspect you might be able to have more fun elsewhere.

Constant interaction with my French-speaking companions has not only improved my French, it has also mangled my English. In that way people mimic one another's behavior--including their style of speech--when they are bonding, I've found myself saying things like: "Tommorow, we go here, yes?" and "I've finished with the guidebook. Do you want, yes?". Weird.