Cave Dwellers

America may have been gearing up for "Operation Iraqi Liberation", but for us, deep in the heart of one of the world's least developed countries, in a village only accessible by river, we had other things on our mind. Like the challenge of swimming across the lazy, wide river. Or, after negotiating the trials of a particularly leisurely lunch, exploring a large cave system a kilometre from the village. We were like Enid Blyton's Famous Five, except we didn't have a dog, and there was no mystery to solve. Instead we just pratted about.

Throughout the day we did our best to be obnoxious tourists. First, we harrassed a local kid for a ride back in his canoe when we got to the other side of the river, probably paying him way to much in the process and annoying his parents. Second, to guide our way in the dark of the cave, we used a plastic bottle stuffed with lit paper that spewed toxic fumes and smoke into the darkness. Third, the running joke for the day revolved around denigrating the local culture: first, someone would say where they planned to go next--when they were asked what was there, they'd reply "Waterfalls, caves, temples...and treks to minority villages."

Sad, but ultimately, fair comment on the average traveller's experience.

In the evening we went back to the previous night's restaurant hoping that meat was now on the menu. It wasn't. At least not until a live chicken was brought in, hanging upside down and struggling for its life. Sometimes you get the freshest ingredients at the remotest places.